The measurements are:
Length of back, 37 inches without the border;
The plain knit margin of each front is carried on to the back of the neck and there joined to form a kind of neckband.
For making both coat and cap 2 ¾ pounds of Messrs J & J Baldwin's Double Knitting Wool, white or coloured as preferred; a pair of long bone or aluminium knitting needles No.9; 6 buttons and some sewing silk to overcast the buttonholes.
BACK OF THE COAT
Cast on 121 stitches. Knit 24 plain rows for the border.
1st Row - Sl 1* k2, p1, k1, p1 and repeat from * to the end, thus starting 24 stripes of pattern.
2nd Row - * K1, p1, k1, m1, k 2, draw the "made" stitch over the 2 knitted stitches and repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 7 times. You will now have 16 rows worked and can see how the stitches have formed themselves into prettily raised stripes; these stripes are to be kept perfectly straight and intact to the neck, excepting those outside stripes which disappear necessarily in the process of shaping the back.
17th Row - Decrease by knitting 2 stitches together at the beginning and the end of the row; 119 sts.
Work 9 rows of pattern; 26 rows done.
Repeat from the 17th row 5 times and the sts will be reduced to 109 on the needle and 76 rows accomplished.
77th Row - Again decrease at beginning and end of the row.
Work 5 rows of pattern.
Repeat from the 77th row 3 times and you will find the stitches now standing 101 on the needle and 100 rows done.
Continue working in pattern forwards and backwards upon these 101 sts until you can count 194 rows from the beginning of the pattern.
195th Row - Beginning armhole - Decrease at the beginning and end of the row.
196th Row - Work 1 row (the 2nd row) of the pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows 9 times and so reduce to 81 sts on the needle.
Now work 38 rows straight on in pattern for the part between the shoulders.
For Shoulders - Work in pattern but cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of each row 6 times; and then 4 stitches each row 6 times; and now cast off all the remaining stitches (27) to from the back of the neck.
This finishes the back of the coat.
Cast on 114 stitches.
Knit 24 plain rows for the border.
1st Row -Sl 1, k12 for front margin, * k2, p1, k 1, p1, and repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
2nd Row - Sl 1, * k1, p1, k1, m1, k2, draw the made stitch over the 2 knitted stitches and repeat from *. Finish with 13 plain knit stitches on the front margin.
Repeat these 2 rows 7 times; observe that the front margin is always to consist of 13sts and the first of these, in commencing a row, should always be slipped, purl-ways, to ensure a smooth edge.
17th Row - First decrease - Work according to the first row of the pattern and k2 tog at the end.
Work 9 rows of pattern.
Repeat from the 17th row 3 times, but half-way between the second and third repeat - i.e., at the 41st row - make the first buttonhole as directed below.
The stitches will now be reduced to 100 on the needle; 56 rows done.
Buttonholes are to be made in the 41st, the 71st, 101st, 131st, 161st and 191st rows, that is 30 rows apart, thus - when beginning upon the margin - s1, k4, k2 tog, m2, s1, k1, pass slipped-stitch over, k4 and proceed in pattern to the end; and in the return row, after knitting 6 of margin, p1 and k6 to the end.
Then work * a decreased row and seven rows of pattern, and repeat from * until the stitches are reduced to 99 on the needle, and 136 rows above the 6th buttonhole.
195th row - Here begin to V-Shape the front. S1, k12, then s1, k1, pass the slipped-stitch over, p1, k1, p1, and continue in pattern as usual to the end (this decrease for the V is to be continued in every forward row until the top of the shoulder is reached, when 7 ridges will have been slanted away).
At the same time the armhole must be shaped, beginning on the 196th row.
196th row - Cast off 12 stitches, and continue in pattern, finishing the row with the border.
197th row - Same as 195th row.
*198th row - K2 tog, and continue in pattern, finishing with the border.
199th row - Same as 195th row.
Repeat from * seven times, and finish at the armhole end.
Proceed with 36 rows of pattern, continuing the shaping of the V front but keeping the knitting straight at the armhole end of the rows. Finish at the armhole end.
For the Shoulder -
Next row - Cast off five stitches and continue pattern, finishing with border/
Next row - * Same as 195th row.
Next row - Cast off 4 stitches and continue in pattern, finishing with border.
Repeat from * until only the thirteen border stitches remain on the needle.
Continue plain knitting upon these marginal stitches until 24 rows or 26 rows are done to reach to the middle of the back of the neck; then cast off.
Work the left front to correspond - that is, after knitting 24 plain rows, start the pattern, beginning s1, p1, k1, p1, k2, and continue, knitting 13 stitches plain at the end. It should be noticed that the marginal stitches are now at the end of the uneven numbered rows instead of the beginning.
Reverse the decreasing in the same way, also the armhole and the V-shaping. Keep margin in plain knitting entirely. No buttonholes are required.
Commence at the top. Cast on 20 stitches.
Work in pattern, and increase two stitches in each row, viz one stitch at each end of each row, until 50 stitches on the needle. Keep the pattern in correct stripes by bringing every stitch into its due position as formed. Then increase once at the beginning only of each row until 70 stitches are attained for the width of the sleeve.
Work 36 rows upon the 70 stitches.
Next row - K2 tog at the beginning and end of the row.
Work 7 rows in pattern.
Repeat these eight rows.
Then work a decrease row, followed by five pattern rows, until the stitches are reduced to 58 on the needle.
Continue in pattern upon the 58 stitches until you can count 154 rows in all from the beginning of the sleeve.
This is entirely in plain knitting.
1st row - S1, k1, k2 tog, * k4, k2 tog, and repeat from * to the end of the row. There are now 48 stitches on the needle.
Work 42 plain rows on these 48 stitches.
Then cast off loosely.
Knit the other sleeve in the same way.
TO MAKE UP THE COAT
Sew the side seams together, also the shoulder pieces. Take the two marginal strips from the fronts and carry them round to the back of the neck, where join them neatly together. Join up the sleeves, and sew them firmly and neatly into the armholes.
There are not any pockets upon the model coat; they are apt to drag, and this is a "thick" pattern. If pockets are wanted, they should be worked in simple plain knitting or in stocking web, and should be fixed on the inside of the fronts. When working the 101st row, knit the margin, also 9 stripes of the pattern, then knit 30 plain stitches, and resume the pattern to the end. In each of the next 7 rows knit 20 plain over 30, and in the next row cast off those thirty. Then in the next row cast 30 on to replace those cast off, and continue the entire front as instructed. This forms the pocket-hole. When the coat is finished you will pick up and knit those 30 stitches you before cast on and work about 46 rows for the depth of the pocket, and cast off; and sew the pocket down in place. This is the pocket for the right front. Another can be made in corresponding position on the left front, if desired.
Sew six buttons upon the left-hand front to meet the buttonholes; and strengthen the buttonholes by overcasting them with sewing silk."
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