An 1896 Bridal Toilette

  "THIS exquisite toilette is the synonym of grace and style and portrays an ideal wedding gown. Ivory white satin, chiffon, point Duchesse lace and orange blossom Lady in Wedding Dress, 1896furnished the decoration.

  "The elaborate looking yet simply constructed bodice is arranged over glove-fitting linings which close in centre front. The jacket fronts, in rounded bolero style, are adorned with rich lace and the free edges are outlined with a narrow quilling of chiffon. The full front of chiffon is closely gathered at the neck and waist line in becoming fulness, the closing being effected invisbly through the centre-front. The back is smooth-fitting across the shoulders with fulness drawn well to the centre in close overlapping plaits at the lower edge.

  "The deep wrinkled girdle of satin is novel in its arrangement, being deepest at the centre front where its fluted edges conceal the closing. The mousquetaire [musketeer] sleeves, mounted over coat-shaped linings are wrinkled from the wrist to above the elbow and stand out well from the shoulders in moderate fulness, as is now the vogue. They are finished at the wrists with deep frills of lace. A standing collar which is concealed by a soft stock of satin and a chic arrangement of lace in the back completes the neck.

  "The exquisite shaping of the skirt is accomplished by eight gores and may be made in either a long sweeping or demi-train. The front and side gores fit smoothly across the top, flaring moderately atthe foot in the present style. The back gores arearranged in three deep box-pleats to fall in rounded graceful folds with stylish effect. The front breadth is outlined on the left side with orange blossoms extending from the waist to the lower edge and finished with a stylish bow of point Duchesse. A dainty ruffle of lace completes the skirt.

  "The conventional bridal veil of tulle and wreath of orange blossoms complete this very dainty toilette.

  "While ivory satin invariably receives the first choice for a wedding gown, white faille, peau-de-soie, glace silk or moreen brocade, alpaca or cashmere are appropriate. Moire poplin is a decidedly new material that can be had in all colours, the most exquisite dove-greys, azure-blues, resedas etc., but for a bridal toilette white still remains par excellence.

  "To make this toilette for a lady in the medium size it will require of twenty-two-inch wide material, five yards for the bodice and sixteen yards for the skirt."

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