Lady's Short Corset in Grey Coutil, 1869

Front View, 1869 Ladies Short Corset


"This corset is bound all round with red wool braid and decorated with an embroidered edging. Cut two of each piece below.

Sew the darts in the front. Set in the bust and hip gussets. Sew the backs to the fronts. Put in cording, whalebone, front clasp and eyelets for lacing."

Pattern

Front, Back, 2 Front Bust Gussets, 2 Front Hip Gussets, 1 Back Hip Gusset

This pattern contains no seam allowances or facings.

Additional Information

The corsets here given may be made of white or grey coutil, satin jean, English leather, black cashmere or heavy black, white or coloured silk. Silk or cashmere corsets must be lined with jean and English leather with muslin. On white or coloured corsets the seams are generally sewn with threads or white silk, while black corsets are sewn with red silk.

In cutting out the corsets, attention must be paid to the way in which the threads run, the direction of which is designated [by the close parallel lines]; when the direction is not given, the material must be straight along the straight edge of the pattern; besides this always allow two fifths of an inch extra material on the sides which are to be joined with other pieces, as the edges run about a quarter of an inch under and over each other. On the edge of each back allow from an inch and a quarter to an inch and three quarters for the hem, which must be stitched down from the right side according to the lines given on the patterns. On these, arrange whalebones, eyelets and laces.

The seams are made by means of two rows of stitching; for sewing these turn down the edge of one piece on the wrong side and of the other on the right side, after which lay the edge together so that they shall lap a quarter of an inch over each other with the edges inside and stitch them down with rows of stitching on the right side. The first row is sewn close to the edge of the upper part, while the other row is sewn a fifth of an inch distant from this

The gores have the points cut square and are the set on the under side of the corset and sewn on either with two rows of stitching on the right side, or with one row of stitching on the wrong side and a hem which is sewn from the under side. On the pints of the bosom and hip gores, fasten the corset pieces down securely by means of button-hole stitches, under which the edge of the material need not be turned in. On the under side fasten the points of the gores to the corset pieces by means of herring-bone stitches, without turning in the edges. In setting in the hip gores, stretch the edges of the corset which are stitched down on these, if they should seem shorter than the edge of the gores.

For the whalebone, set linen tape cases on the under side along the dotted lines given on the pattern, stitch them down on the right and then stitch them through several times where the dotted lines so indicate. The whalebones must never reach entirely to the under and upper edges, but must begin from half an inch to an inch from each edge. The tape is, however, ordinarily continued to the edges, so as not to interrupt the lines of stitching. Fasten the ends of the whalebones either by means of a number of long radiating stitches in making which the needle must be put through a hole bored in the whalebone, or merely stitched along the ends above and below the whalebone. In order to prevent the end of the whalebone from being seen on the back of the corset, stitch several cords in the space above it. For the busk, set linen tapes on the front edge of each front; a line on the pattern designates this.

Bind the upper and under edge of the corset with linen, woollen or silk braid. [On the upper edge, decorative] points can be worked in buttonhole stitch and coloured ribbon drawn through them.

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