1886 Walking Dresses

FIG. 1.  Ladies Toilette - Pattern Nos. 1132 and 1133

No. 1

This consists of a ladies basque and skirt . The basque pattern which is No.1132 is in 13 sizes for 28-46 inch bust and is represented made of plain goods with corded edging below. The skirt pattern which is No.1133 is in 9 sizes 20-36 inches waist and is portrayed with a binding of silk braid on the drapery edges in the picture below.

In this instance the toilet is shown made of plain frise dress goods and velvet is very decoratively introduced. The round skirt shows the fashionable plain finish at the foot and is planned to be worn over a large or a small bustle. The front drapery exhibits the much admired jabot folds at the right side where it is draped by six deep upturning plaits; and at the left side it rounds smoothly away below its draping plaits and falls almost to the edge of the skirt. At the back the drapery is very full and presents an unique style of draping. A deep loop is formed in the left edge near the belt and below the loop the edge falls straight. At the right side the top of the drapery is deeply reversed in a point that falls with a wing-like effect, its back edge forming irregular jabot folds below the belt. The bottom of the back drapery falls square and the effect is unique and stylish. The jabot folds in the front drapery show a smooth facing of velvet.

FIG. 2.  Ladies Walking Skirt - Pattern No. 1133

The basque has a deep square postillion back with an under-folded double box plait at the end of the centre seam and coat flaps at the FIG. 3.  Ladies Basque - Pattern No. 1132 side back seam. At the sides it arches high and is quite short. At the front it shapes a deep point at the closure which is made down the centre with buttonholes and buttons. The seams and darts are well curved to produce a close handsome adjustment. The standing collar of velvet and the coat sleeves are trimmed with deep cuffs of velvet. The lingerie is white linen. If desired the bottom of the skirt may be trimmed but decided preference is shown for a plain edge finish.

The mode is stylish for tailor costumes and machine-stitching, braid binding, braid decoration or a plain completion may be adopted. Contrast may be developed with stylish results. Bordered or embroidered goods are handsome in combination with plain goods and may be used for the skirt or drapery as preferred. All sorts of fashionable dress goods including checked, plaid, striped, figured, boucle and plain varieties will be selected for toilettes of this style.

The hat is trimmed with ribbon and a band of lace hat-trimming. Its brim is faced with velvet.

FIG. 4.  Ladies Toilette - Pattern Nos. 1122 and 1123No. 2

This consists of a ladies skirt and basque. The skirt pattern which is No.1123 is in nine sizes for ladies from 20-36 inches waist measure and may be seen developed in other material below. The basque pattern which is No.1122 is in 13 sizes for ladies from 28-46inches bust measure and is differently represented further below. Watered silk and canvas suiting are very stylishly combined in this toilette.

The skirt is of regulation round style, with provision made for its graceful adjustment over a long or a short bustle. A deep side-plaiting of the dress goods trims the bottom of the gores, and falling over the top of the plaiting is a tablier-drapery that is gathered at the belt and falls with rigid plainness. Upon the back of the skirt is a kilted drapery that is hemmed at the bottom and reaches more than half-way to the belt. Above this drapery is arranged a massive sash-bow of the watered silk, the ends of which fall almost to the edge of the skirt. The loops of the sash-bow are large and very full, producing a stylish, bouffant effect.

The basque has a v-shaped facing of the watered silk applied to the centre of the back from the top to the waist-line, and below the facing an under-folded box-plait gives a pretty fullness over the tournure. On the hips the basque is very short and the outline of the back is exceedingly pretty. The front closes down the centre, and upon in it is arranged an ornamental front that is cut out very low in pompadour shape, exposing the watered silk facing applied on the front. The adjustment is very handsome and is made by double bust darts taken in both fronts, FIG. 5.  Ladies Walking Skirt - Pattern No. 1123 under-arm and side-back gores and a curving seam down the middle of FIG. 6.  Ladies Basque - Pattern No. 1122 the back, the latter being concealed by the facing. the high standing collar is of the silk. Cuffs that are deep and pointed at the back of the wrists and cut away almost to nothing at the inside seam are simulated with the silk, and the sleeves fit comfortably and are yet fashionably close. Ruffs are worn on the neck and wrists.

Velvet plush plain, fancy or brocaded silk or satin may be used instead of the watered silk, and one material may be used throughout if desired. The sash-bow affords opportunities for using the handsome sash-ribbon in vogue and even without these ribbons a contrasting material may be introduced in the basque. The V-facing in the back is merely trimming and may be added or not, as preferred.

The turban hat has a smooth facing of velvet on its brim. It is handsome trimmed with ribbon and plumage.

For further information please see our article THE BUSTLE ERA - Fashion in the 1870s & 80s.

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