The
Work-Box
In order to
secure economy of time, labor and expence, and also to do
every thing neatly and in order, the lady who is
intending to engage in the domestic employment of
preparing the linen necessary for personal and family
use, should be careful to have all her materials ready
and disposed in the most systematic manner possible,
before commencing work. The materials employed in the
construction of articles which come under the
denomination of plain needlework are so various, that a
mere list of them would occupy more than half our space;
and they are so well known, that no necessity exists for
naming them in detail. We shall therefore proceed at once
to give plain directions, by which any lady may soon
become expert in the necessary department of household
uses, merely observing that a neat work-box, well
supplied with all the implements required - including
knife, scissors, of at least three sizes, needles and
pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, thread and
cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black-lead pencils,
Indian rubber etc. should be provided and be furnished
with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown
into confusion by children, servants or unauthorized
intruders. The
Work Room
The lady
being thus provided, and having her materials, implements
etc. placed in order upon her work-table, to the edge of
which it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed by
means of a screw - may commence her work and proceed with
pleasure to herself and without annoyance to any visitor
who may favour her with a call. We would recommend,
wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made
of cedar and that the windows of the working parlour
should open into a garden well supplied with odoriferous
flowers and plants, the perfume of which will materially
cheer the spirits of those especially, whose
circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion
of their time to sedentary occupations. If these
advantages cannot be obtained, at least the room should
be well ventilated and furnished with a few cheerful
plants and a well-filled scent-jar. The beneficent
Creator intended all His children, in whatever station of
life they might be placed, to share in the common
bounties of His providence; and when she, who not for
pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is
compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together,
from the cheering influence of exercises in the open air,
it becomes both her duty and that of those for whom she
labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the
best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the
case will admit.
We now
proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear
though concise rules, for the preparation of various
articles of dress and attire.
Aprons
These are
made of a variety of materials and are applied to various
uses. The aprons used for common purposes are made of
white, blue, brown, checked and sometimes of black linen;
nankeen, stuff and print are also employed. The width is
generally one breadth of the material and the length is
regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress aprons are
of course made of finer materials:- cambric muslin, silk,
satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, etc. and
are generally two breadths in width, one of which is cut
in two, so as to throw a seam on each side and leave an
entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all kinds are
straight and either plaited or gathered on to the band or
stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed
at the bottom with a broad hem; those with two breadths
must be hemmed at the sides likewise. The band should be
from half a nail to a nail broad; its length is to be
determined by the waist of the wearer. It should be
fastened at the back with hooks and eyelet holes. To some
aprons, pockets are attached, which are either sewed on
in front, or at the back, and a slit made in the apron to
correspond with them. The slit, or opening of the pocket
is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most
desirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced,
which are useful to cover the upper part of the dress.
Their size must be determined by the taste of the person
who is to wear them.
Dress Aprons
Take two
breadths of any material you choose, dividing one of them
in the middle. Hem all roud with broad hem, three-fourths
of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a half nails
deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to
be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in
chain stitch. The band is scolloped out from the centre,
on its lower side, five and half nails, leaving the
extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped
portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as
neat as possible; leaving the space beneath the
whalebone, plain. Confine the folds by working two rows
of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the band,
leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of
the band is ornamented with a small piping, but is left
plain at the top.
Vandyke Apron
This may be
either of silk or muslin. The edge of the apron is to be
turned down once all round, on the right side, to the
depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are
formed by running from the edge of the apron to near the
rough edge of the material, which is afterwards to be
turned in. When the vandykes are completed, they are to
be turned inside out and made as smooth as possible. A
braid, or a row of tent stitch on the right side, over
the stitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band,
the plaits must be placed opposite to each other, so as
to meet in the middle. You may line the band with
buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping, if
you please.
Apron for a Young Person
Clear muslin
is the best material. Hem round with a hem, three fourths
of a nail deep; lay all round, wuthin the hem, a shawl
bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the
latter must be taken off before washing.
A Morning Apron
This may be
made like the last, but instead of the shawl bordering,
surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped
frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is
jaconet or cambric muslin; the frill of lawn, or cambric,
which you please.
Caps
These are
made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials
are as various as the purposes to which the article is
applied. Muslins of various kinds, lawn, net, lace and
calico are all in request; and the borders are also
extremely various. Muslin, net or lace being those most
in common use. The shapes are so multifarious as to
preclude us from giving any specific directions. Every
lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the
purpose she has in view. The patterns should be cut in
paper, and considerable care is requisite in cutting it
out, not to waste the material. A little careful practice
will soon make this department familiar to the expert
votaress of the needle.
Frills
These are
used as ornaments or a finish to various articles of
dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net etc.,
and the manner in which they are made is various.
Sometimes they are set on quite plain, that is, hemmed
round and plaited up into neat folds to the width
required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band and
the edge that is to be hemmed is stiffened by rolling it
over a bobbin; it is put on as an ornament to a gown and
is tied with strings at the end. Crimped frills are worn
by young children and look extremely neat. They are made
of lawn or cambric and sewed on to a band. The other edge
is hemmed and the frill is double the size round the
neck. The band should be half a nail in depth, and the
frill is to be crimped as evenly as possible.
Neck
and Pocket Handkerchiefs
These are
made of a great variety of materials as silk, muslin,
cambric, lawn and net. The neck handkerchiefs are
generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It is
a good plan to turn up the extreme corner, as it makes it
more strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes
round the waist and ties in front. Sometimes a broad
muslin hem is put on the two straight sides, which looks
extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their neck
handkerchief, which gives to those made of net, the
appearance of lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly
hemmed and sometimes have a worked border. Those used by
gentlemen are of a larger size than those of ladies.
Scarves
A Ribbon Scarf
This is made
of broad satin ribbon and must not be less than two nails
and a half wide; its length is two yards and three
quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side
and run in a slanting direction, so as to cause it to
fall gracefully on the neck. The ends are to be
embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as
may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an
edging of swan's down. This is an elegant article of
feminine attire.
A Plain Scarf
This is
generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two yards
and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem,
so as to admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a
neat and finished appearance.
A Dress Shawl
Take a half
square of one yard and twelve nails of satin velvet or
plush, which you please, and line it with sarsenet,
either white or colored; trim the two straight edges with
a hem of either silk or satin, from one to one nail and a
half in breadth and cut crossway. Or you may trim it with
fur, lace or fringe.
Veils
These are
made of net, gauze or lace and are plain or worked, as
suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally
of lace; mourning ones are made of black crape. The
jet-black is to be preferred as it wears much better than
the kind termed blue-black. Coloured veils look well with
a satin ribbon of the same colour and about a nail deep,
put on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a
light colour is preferable, as it makes a slight
contrast. A crape or gauze veil is hemmed round; that at
the bottom being something broader than the rest. All
veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are
frequently furnished with ribbon at the bottom, which
enables the wearer to obtain advantage of a double one,
by tying the second string round her bonnet, where she is
desirous to screen her eyes from the sun and dust, and at
the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool and
refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all
round the bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them
fall more gracefully. It is advisable to take them up a
little at the ears, so as not to leave them the full
depth; without this precaution, they are liable to appear
unsightly and slovenly.
Cloaks
These useful
and necessary articles of dress are generally made up by
a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give
particular directions concerning them. The materials are
silks and stuffs of almost every variety, including
satin, merino, cloth, real and imitation shawling, plaids
and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used.
Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and
are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used in
walking dresses. Satin cloaks look well with velvet
collars and are also frequently trimmed with the same
material. Merino and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed
with fur or velvet and lined with the same. Sometimes
they are made perfectly plain. The lining of a silk or
satin cloak, should be of the same color, or else a
well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the
color should be one that is not liable to fade, or to
receive damage. An attention to these general remarks
will be found of much advantage to the lady who, in
making her purchases, is desirous of combining elegance
of appearance with durability of wear and economy of
price.
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